In case you didn't know it was there... have you adjusted the bass in the radio settings?
Yeah, that's a huge panel with lots of room. It isn't very sturdy though. You'd need to brace it really well if you want to cut for large woofer(s). You'd probably want to brace it anyway so it doesn't hum and groan.What are your thoughts about using the rear deck shelf for the mounting of a sub? My old Lexus ES330 had a sub there and it was fine for stock. Seems like an easy place to mount one in the K5.
Appreciate the kind words! Hopefully many will find the info in here helpful.@slimguy this is so incredibly helpful, and kind, of you to put this together for us. Like @JerseyPines said, I too used to do custom installs as a hobby and also as a job 25 years ago in college as well, so I salivate reading stuff like this. I'd just pay for it now, but make sure they follow your advice, lol.
You can use a 7 band we much like a DSP. It would sit between the source and the amplification. In my case the source would be the factory headunit.Awesome post!
I have seen some 7 band eq's that have a line in 3.5mm port. I'm not super familiar with them, but if my understanding is correct, they can be used as a legit auxiliary input. Would that work in a setup like yours? I don't think I'm well versed in this enough to do myself lol I think I'd just take it in and ask for specific things.
Also would you recommend an under the seat powered sub? I'm not sure there's enough room down there tbh, but I like the idea of them
Thanks for the reply. I don't need anything super bass heavy but I absolutely notice a major bump in the 60-70Hz range and it's annoying 😅 I try to flatten everything using a parametric EQ in Poweramp on Android but it's still prone to distortion. Also you confirmed my suspicion of the volume dependent EQ! Much past 15 I lose bass.You can use a 7 band we much like a DSP. It would sit between the source and the amplification. In my case the source would be the factory headunit.
Depending on the EQ / DSP you can use other inputs such as the aux you mention. On my DSP, I can use RCA and digital inputs. Using these inputs would mean you wouldn’t need to use all the EQ anti-all pass filters I described to get a flat input response.
However, when you bypass the headunit you also lose track and volume control as well other audio like hands free calling, navigation, etc.
Many people in high end audio camps do this even with the loss of those features as it will result in the greatest audio fidelity. I’m not that extreme since this headunit does sound pretty good once all the crap is cancelled out
As for the under seat sub, they can sound really good when executed properly but it’s not easy to do and often requires cutting. The space under the seats are pretty limited. You might be able to find more air space for a small sub in the footwell or near the dash.
You could get a flat format 8” and get pretty low and it should sound good. Just keep in mind that the lowest of frequencies would still be better served by a larger diameter sub. It takes a larger cone to move the air required to deliver deep bass.
Yeah, the factory setup has a massive 60Hz peak.Thanks for the reply. I don't need anything super bass heavy but I absolutely notice a major bump in the 60-70Hz range and it's annoying I try to flatten everything using a parametric EQ in Poweramp on Android but it's still prone to distortion. Also you confirmed my suspicion of the volume dependent EQ! Much past 15 I lose bass.
Approximately how much did all this cost? If I had to guess I'd say $2000+