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@slimguy
Any recommendations for reasonably priced door speakers? Likely from Crutchfield, everything else remain factory.
Hoping to increase the base a bit with richer sound, but don't have the ability to add an amp or sub. Thx john
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
@slimguy
Any recommendations for reasonably priced door speakers? Likely from Crutchfield, everything else remain factory.
Hoping to increase the base a bit with richer sound, but don't have the ability to add an amp or sub. Thx john
In case you didn't know it was there... have you adjusted the bass in the radio settings?

The OEM speakers are built and factory tuned to produce a fair amount of bass, especially in the 60Hz region. Replacing them for a more capable door speaker is possible but without anyway to tune or amplify them further, replacements may very well produce less bass. That was my experience. I have Hertz which are pretty well regarded for their bass. While they are capable of quite a bit more, and sounded a little better in the bass region upon install, I wasn't able to take full advantage of them until I installed my DSP and amps.

The only guarantee for significantly increased bass would be to add a subwoofer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Expanded the Wiring and Connectivity post, Subwoofer post and added Center Channel post, Door Speakers post and my system & non-recommendations :D Up next are tweeters.
 

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What are your thoughts about using the rear deck shelf for the mounting of a sub? My old Lexus ES330 had a sub there and it was fine for stock. Seems like an easy place to mount one in the K5.

Otherwise, excellent review, seems like a speaker upgrade initially could be very worthwhile with an amp, DSP and Sub later.
 

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@rcook55
The models with the Bose system has an 8-inch subwoofer mounted there. Non-Bose systems has that subwoofer hole sealed up, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Added a lot more info in tweeter section and changed the photo format to thumbnails. It's getting a little out of hand :D I'll go through and update other images as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
What are your thoughts about using the rear deck shelf for the mounting of a sub? My old Lexus ES330 had a sub there and it was fine for stock. Seems like an easy place to mount one in the K5.
Yeah, that's a huge panel with lots of room. It isn't very sturdy though. You'd need to brace it really well if you want to cut for large woofer(s). You'd probably want to brace it anyway so it doesn't hum and groan.

The Tang Band W8 is pretty awesome and really lightweight. You could probably fit 6 of these on there :LOL: They aren't very sensitive though so you'd need a bit of power. They also would need a cabinet to function properly.

There are subs built to run without a cabinet in infinite baffle setup, but they are usually heavy and are often costly.

I've considered cutting it to vent into the cabin for an infinite baffle install. Haven't decided yet. My 12" is pretty loud as is, just won't play as low.
 

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@slimguy this is so incredibly helpful, and kind, of you to put this together for us. Like @JerseyPines said, I too used to do custom installs as a hobby and also as a job 25 years ago in college as well, so I salivate reading stuff like this. I'd just pay for it now, but make sure they follow your advice, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
@slimguy this is so incredibly helpful, and kind, of you to put this together for us. Like @JerseyPines said, I too used to do custom installs as a hobby and also as a job 25 years ago in college as well, so I salivate reading stuff like this. I'd just pay for it now, but make sure they follow your advice, lol.
Appreciate the kind words! Hopefully many will find the info in here helpful.
 

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Awesome post!

I have seen some 7 band eq's that have a line in 3.5mm port. I'm not super familiar with them, but if my understanding is correct, they can be used as a legit auxiliary input. Would that work in a setup like yours? I don't think I'm well versed in this enough to do myself lol I think I'd just take it in and ask for specific things.

Also would you recommend an under the seat powered sub? I'm not sure there's enough room down there tbh, but I like the idea of them
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Awesome post!

I have seen some 7 band eq's that have a line in 3.5mm port. I'm not super familiar with them, but if my understanding is correct, they can be used as a legit auxiliary input. Would that work in a setup like yours? I don't think I'm well versed in this enough to do myself lol I think I'd just take it in and ask for specific things.

Also would you recommend an under the seat powered sub? I'm not sure there's enough room down there tbh, but I like the idea of them
You can use a 7 band we much like a DSP. It would sit between the source and the amplification. In my case the source would be the factory headunit.

Depending on the EQ / DSP you can use other inputs such as the aux you mention. On my DSP, I can use RCA and digital inputs. Using these inputs would mean you wouldn’t need to use all the EQ anti-all pass filters I described to get a flat input response.

However, when you bypass the headunit you also lose track and volume control as well other audio like hands free calling, navigation, etc.

Many people in high end audio camps do this even with the loss of those features as it will result in the greatest audio fidelity. I’m not that extreme since this headunit does sound pretty good once all the crap is cancelled out :)

As for the under seat sub, they can sound really good when executed properly but it’s not easy to do and often requires cutting. The space under the seats are pretty limited. You might be able to find more air space for a small sub in the footwell or near the dash.

You could get a flat format 8” and get pretty low and it should sound good. Just keep in mind that the lowest of frequencies would still be better served by a larger diameter sub. It takes a larger cone to move the air required to deliver deep bass.
 

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You can use a 7 band we much like a DSP. It would sit between the source and the amplification. In my case the source would be the factory headunit.

Depending on the EQ / DSP you can use other inputs such as the aux you mention. On my DSP, I can use RCA and digital inputs. Using these inputs would mean you wouldn’t need to use all the EQ anti-all pass filters I described to get a flat input response.

However, when you bypass the headunit you also lose track and volume control as well other audio like hands free calling, navigation, etc.

Many people in high end audio camps do this even with the loss of those features as it will result in the greatest audio fidelity. I’m not that extreme since this headunit does sound pretty good once all the crap is cancelled out :)

As for the under seat sub, they can sound really good when executed properly but it’s not easy to do and often requires cutting. The space under the seats are pretty limited. You might be able to find more air space for a small sub in the footwell or near the dash.

You could get a flat format 8” and get pretty low and it should sound good. Just keep in mind that the lowest of frequencies would still be better served by a larger diameter sub. It takes a larger cone to move the air required to deliver deep bass.
Thanks for the reply. I don't need anything super bass heavy but I absolutely notice a major bump in the 60-70Hz range and it's annoying 😅 I try to flatten everything using a parametric EQ in Poweramp on Android but it's still prone to distortion. Also you confirmed my suspicion of the volume dependent EQ! Much past 15 I lose bass.

Approximately how much did all this cost? If I had to guess I'd say $2000+
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Thanks for the reply. I don't need anything super bass heavy but I absolutely notice a major bump in the 60-70Hz range and it's annoying I try to flatten everything using a parametric EQ in Poweramp on Android but it's still prone to distortion. Also you confirmed my suspicion of the volume dependent EQ! Much past 15 I lose bass.

Approximately how much did all this cost? If I had to guess I'd say $2000+
Yeah, the factory setup has a massive 60Hz peak.

Short of going full DSP and amplification you could add a sub crossed with a low pass filter around 40-50Hz. This way it won’t play into the 60Hz range as much and may balance it out a bit.

This should work especially well for those who like a bass heavy system.

Using your phone to EQ that region, as you described, is a great idea as well.

I have about $3k in my system but that’s definitely more on the expensive side. Similar setup could be accomplished for less. I had a number of these items from previous builds.
 
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