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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I installed the JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1. I am thinking I might need to start from scratch with the settings on the LC2i and the built in amp. I typically listen at volumes between 30-35, I wonder if I am bumping up against the bass cut you discovered in your testing.
That’s a pretty powerful amp with a low voltage input requirement. Definitely get the LC2i setup first and then play a bass heavy song with the volume at your typical loudness.

Adjust the gain to a moderate level. Then fiddle with accubass. It may or may not be helpful and could vary per song, but it’s worth a try. If accubass isn’t helpful, you could remove the LC2i from the system and run the high level directly into the amplifier itself.

Also, the trunk is sealed pretty well, folding one of the seats down, or even cracking it makes a huge difference.
 

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That’s a pretty powerful amp with a low voltage input requirement. Definitely get the LC2i setup first and then play a bass heavy song with the volume at your typical loudness.

Adjust the gain to a moderate level. Then fiddle with accubass. It may or may not be helpful and could vary per song, but it’s worth a try. If accubass isn’t helpful, you could remove the LC2i from the system and run the high level directly into the amplifier itself.

Also, the trunk is sealed pretty well, folding one of the seats down, or even cracking it makes a huge difference.
I picked up a Kicker Keyloc and swapped it in to replace the LC2i. Made a huge improvement. Thanks again for sharing your detailed research and findings!
 

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This thread is all about the 6 speaker factory stereo in the 2021+ K5 GT-Line.

If you have information to share about a Bose system please create an additional thread and share the link so I can add it here in the top. The systems are very different aside from door speaker and tweeter sizes. It could get pretty confusing if we’re throwing around specs for both systems in the same thread.

I'm pretty particular about my music... a snob, some might say. I wouldn't call myself an audiophile as I don't purchase $800 speaker wire or HDMI cables BUT I am pretty critical of the musical fidelity in my car, my house, my headphones, live performances, you name it.

While shopping for a new car I had narrowed it down to a couple and was back and forth test driving and listening. I'm no stranger to customizing stereos so the only real requirement was that it wouldn't be terribly difficult to modify and the signal sounded clean (no obvious distortion from the speakers at high volume).

Researching anything on the K5 was/is difficult since it's still pretty new. I really wanted AWD since I live up north and the dealer offered me a good price so BAM, there I was with a brand new, great looking vehicle with a ****ty sounding stereo :LOL:

The tone wasn't terrible for OEM but the music felt very disconnected no matter where you sat. When listening to certain songs, parts of them had hollow sounding voices and other bits that made my head feel like it was in a vacuum. You can hear this affect by popping on some headphones/earbuds and listening to this track at around 40 seconds.


It wasn't this extreme all the time, just certain songs were really bad.

I always modify my stereos to make them as "SQ" as possible. If you're looking for a soundstage with well placed voices and instruments, stick around. If you plan to install 4 15" subs so it sounds like a gorilla's trying to escape your trunk, this info will also be helpful, but you can skip down to the subwoofer post (when it’s written) to expedite the process.

Also, I will fill in the placeholders in the coming days. There's a lot to share!

Ok enough yapping, let's get into it. There's a lot to unpack here. Apologies if this is too in depth... These are all the things I would have loved to have known before I purchased the vehicle!

Section links as I complete them:
Factory Specs Overview
Headunit Measurements
Removing All Pass Filters
Volume Dependent EQ
General Wiring and Connectivity
Subwoofer Add-on
Door Speakers and Deadening
Tweeters
Center Channel
Basic DSP Settings
TBD
Speaker / Device Selection
thank you so much for your in-depth analysis! That is what I would call an audiophile exhortation!
I was hoping you may be kind enough to give me a little advice. I too am in the same boat and would like to upgrade my sound system in my K5. I just visited a local audio shop and he suggested I purchase Audiotech Fischer Match 7 channel amp and use that to power the existing 6 speakers. He claimed this would be the least invasive way in which we could improve sound quality without replacing speakers. I would love to hear your opinion on this? I am not a die-hard audiophile but would love some improved sound. Do you think powering these stock speakers would make the night and day difference he claimed?

Warm regards,
Blake Stephens
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
thank you so much for your in-depth analysis! That is what I would call an audiophile exhortation!
I was hoping you may be kind enough to give me a little advice. I too am in the same boat and would like to upgrade my sound system in my K5. I just visited a local audio shop and he suggested I purchase Audiotech Fischer Match 7 channel amp and use that to power the existing 6 speakers. He claimed this would be the least invasive way in which we could improve sound quality without replacing speakers. I would love to hear your opinion on this? I am not a die-hard audiophile but would love some improved sound. Do you think powering these stock speakers would make the night and day difference he claimed?

Warm regards,
Blake Stephens
That's a good device and is similar to my DSP/amp. Same brand and everything. It has a reduced feature set compared to mine and is less flexible overall. It's also about $300 less than mine (I think). The installation of the Match 7 would be nearly identical in complexity to mine. There are tradeoffs with both and many ways to install and configure them.

I've not used that one personally, but it's a 5 channel plus 2 sub channels. If the sub channels can't be configured for non-sub use, you won't have any control over the crossovers for the front doors and tweeters nor would they be individually tunable. I'd ask them what speakers they plan to power from the match 7 and how before committing to anything.

Another thing to note that is the highlevel input voltage. The Match 7 has a max of 11 volts. The K5 with the 10.25" screen can definitely go above that at max volume. Keep the volume level below 40 and it shouldn't be an issue.

Do you want to add a sub woofer or center channel? If adding a subwoofer, do you like it loud?
 

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That's a good device and is similar to my DSP/amp. Same brand and everything. It has a reduced feature set compared to mine and is less flexible overall. It's also about $300 less than mine (I think). The installation of the Match 7 would be nearly identical in complexity to mine. There are tradeoffs with both and many ways to install and configure them.

I've not used that one personally, but it's a 5 channel plus 2 sub channels. If the sub channels can't be configured for non-sub use, you won't have any control over the crossovers for the front doors and tweeters nor would they be individually tunable. I'd ask them what speakers they plan to power from the match 7 and how before committing to anything.

Another thing to note that is the highlevel input voltage. The Match 7 has a max of 11 volts. The K5 with the 10.25" screen can definitely go above that at max volume. Keep the volume level below 40 and it shouldn't be an issue.

Do you want to add a sub woofer or center channel? If adding a subwoofer, do you like it loud?
Thanks so much for the prompt response! I’m infinitely grateful. They said they would power front door, rear door, and tweeters with the match 7 with an additional channel powering a 10 inch woofer. I have the 8 inch screen not the 10.25 so I would love to hear your feedback on voltage for that? Additionally, he said I could add a center speaker (one in the dash) for an extra $100. I would love to know if you think that’s a good idea! And lastly, forgive my ignorance, but I was completely shocked when he suggested this route…..powering 6 stock speakers and not upgrading the speakers??? Are these stock speakers capable of so much more than what I hear now? I’m guessing yes because he said so and his company is quite reputable. Over 400 reviews on Yelp at 4.5 stars. Thanks again for your help man! Truly appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Thanks so much for the prompt response! I’m infinitely grateful. They said they would power front door, rear door, and tweeters with the match 7 with an additional channel powering a 10 inch woofer. I have the 8 inch screen not the 10.25 so I would love to hear your feedback on voltage for that? Additionally, he said I could add a center speaker (one in the dash) for an extra $100. I would love to know if you think that’s a good idea! And lastly, forgive my ignorance, but I was completely shocked when he suggested this route…..powering 6 stock speakers and not upgrading the speakers??? Are these stock speakers capable of so much more than what I hear now? I’m guessing yes because he said so and his company is quite reputable. Over 400 reviews on Yelp at 4.5 stars. Thanks again for your help man! Truly appreciate it.
Regarding my previous sub output comment, I pulled up the DSP software and it appears you could reconfigure the sub channels to output full range signal to other speaker types. If this is the case, it should work well for the six factory speakers.

It think they may be going the easy route where they wouldn't separate the tweeters and front door speakers from each other so all four would be powered by two channels. This is how the system is currently configured and is not ideal given the Match 7 capabilities and cost.

If they were to separate the fronts into four channels, and connected the rears, you'd have one channel left four the sub. I don't know if the Match 7 will be enough to power a 10" sub off a single channel. I'm no bass-junky but the available 65-160 watts wouldn't be enough for my taste unless the sub was ported/vented through the deck. The trunk is sealed pretty well and more power is required to overcome it.

I wouldn't mess with a center channel, honestly. The Match 7 doesn't have input eq so they wouldn't be able to de-bone the factory eq and all pass filters on the center.

As for the speakers, they're not awful but they're also not high quality. A good installer / tuner can take them further. If all he sets up is time alignment, it'll sound decent for the driver seat aside from the 80Hz bass cancellation. If you've never heard a proper time aligned setup you're in for a treat.

I gave up pretty quickly on the OEM stuff as I am a bit more particular :)
 

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Regarding my previous sub output comment, I pulled up the DSP software and it appears you could reconfigure the sub channels to output full range signal to other speaker types. If this is the case, it should work well for the six factory speakers.

It think they may be going the easy route where they wouldn't separate the tweeters and front door speakers from each other so all four would be powered by two channels. This is how the system is currently configured and is not ideal given the Match 7 capabilities and cost.

If they were to separate the fronts into four channels, and connected the rears, you'd have one channel left four the sub. I don't know if the Match 7 will be enough to power a 10" sub off a single channel. I'm no bass-junky but the available 65-160 watts wouldn't be enough for my taste unless the sub was ported/vented through the deck. The trunk is sealed pretty well and more power is required to overcome it.

I wouldn't mess with a center channel, honestly. The Match 7 doesn't have input eq so they wouldn't be able to de-bone the factory eq and all pass filters on the center.

As for the speakers, they're not awful but they're also not high quality. A good installer / tuner can take them further. If all he sets up is time alignment, it'll sound decent for the driver seat aside from the 80Hz bass cancellation. If you've never heard a proper time aligned setup you're in for a treat.

I gave up pretty quickly on the OEM stuff as I am a bit more particular :)
Excellent! You’ve been extremely helpful! I do remember now he said the sub would be powered by another amp! I guess this particular sub is a JBL 11inch sub with a built in amplifier. This sub sits just above the spare tire so it’s hidden in the trunk! Not sure if you’ve ever heard one like this but I haven’t. My previous subwoofer in my old accord was a ported JL 12. And before that (high school days) Memphis M3 15inch woofer. But those days of rattling my trunk off the hinges are over.

He did say that after they set it up they take a microphone and go thru the entire car tuning everything (some software program). He made it sound high tech. I am glad to hear that you think the stock speakers will sound good if tuned properly and if the the front door and tweeters are separated from each other. Let’s say he will separate those from eachother… all in with installation I’m looking at $2200.00. With a lifetime installation warranty. Only 2 year warranty on amp and woofer. Curious if you think this is worth it?

Lastly, he said they WOULDNT be wiring directly to the speakers (like taking door panels off, pillars for tweeters), instead would attach directly to the back of the OEM head unit. Does this sound right to you?
Best,
Blake
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Excellent! You’ve been extremely helpful! I do remember now he said the sub would be powered by another amp! I guess this particular sub is a JBL 11inch sub with a built in amplifier. This sub sits just above the spare tire so it’s hidden in the trunk! Not sure if you’ve ever heard one like this but I haven’t. My previous subwoofer in my old accord was a ported JL 12. And before that (high school days) Memphis M3 15inch woofer. But those days of rattling my trunk off the hinges are over.

He did say that after they set it up they take a microphone and go thru the entire car tuning everything (some software program). He made it sound high tech. I am glad to hear that you think the stock speakers will sound good if tuned properly and if the the front door and tweeters are separated from each other. Let’s say he will separate those from eachother… all in with installation I’m looking at $2200.00. With a lifetime installation warranty. Only 2 year warranty on amp and woofer. Curious if you think this is worth it?

Lastly, he said they WOULDNT be wiring directly to the speakers (like taking door panels off, pillars for tweeters), instead would attach directly to the back of the OEM head unit. Does this sound right to you?
Best,
Blake
That price sounds reasonable. The equipment and wiring alone is probably around $1600 before tax.

I’ve not heard that particular sub but JBL is a good brand. JL Audio made stealthboxes that go in some vehicle spare tires and performed quite well. Never know until you try!

As long as they set everything up properly and actually tune the DSP it should be a good upgrade.
 

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@slimguy
Awesome post just got done adding a 5 channel amp and 10 in sub to my 2022 k5. I'm running a lc2i right now to give me sub input and then basically a single output for the 4 channel losing my ability to fade. Speakers sound great amplified but sub is giving me some issues which sounds like it might be the all pass filters as well as some delay issues. Looking at the keyloc It soesn look like I could run a 5 channel amp off that like I can with the lc2i. Would it be possible to run the keyloc in between the lc2i and amp just for sub dsp/delay fix or is there another option without just going full DSP setup?
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
@slimguy
Awesome post just got done adding a 5 channel amp and 10 in sub to my 2022 k5. I'm running a lc2i right now to give me sub input and then basically a single output for the 4 channel losing my ability to fade. Speakers sound great amplified but sub is giving me some issues which sounds like it might be the all pass filters as well as some delay issues. Looking at the keyloc It soesn look like I could run a 5 channel amp off that like I can with the lc2i. Would it be possible to run the keyloc in between the lc2i and amp just for sub dsp/delay fix or is there another option without just going full DSP setup?
Congrats on the upgrade! You can probably solve this without additional equipment if your amp has some flexibility.

The simplest solution to the all pass 80hz cancellation issue for subs, assuming your amp has multiple rca inputs, is to use the rear channels or only one of the front channels.

The downsides are reduced levels from the rear channels (which should be fixable with gain adjustments). If using a single front channel there’s the risk that low bass could be output to one channel but not the other, though that’s unlikely as low bass is generally mastered in mono for two channels recordings as its omni-directional.
 

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Congrats on the upgrade! You can probably solve this without additional equipment if your amp has some flexibility.

The simplest solution to the all pass 80hz cancellation issue for subs, assuming your amp has multiple rca inputs, is to use the rear channels or only one of the front channels.

The downsides are reduced levels from the rear channels (which should be fixable with gain adjustments). If using a single front channel there’s the risk that low bass could be output to one channel but not the other, though that’s unlikely as low bass is generally mastered in mono for two channels recordings as its omni-directional.
Awesome so I had this installed by a local shop and without doing a complete tear down I believe they grabbed the high level inputs for the lc2i from the front speakers and maybe completely bypassed grabbing hi level inputs from the rear "part of our discussion before I saw your post was the tears being pretty weak for a signal. So without tearing into how they wired it and grabbing from the rears if they didn't would running of a single front channel be as simple as disconnecting one of the RCA's from the bass RCA output on the lc2i or does it do some sort of summing automatically from it's high level inputs that it sends to both channels on that RCA output. If that makes sense lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Awesome so I had this installed by a local shop and without doing a complete tear down I believe they grabbed the high level inputs for the lc2i from the front speakers and maybe completely bypassed grabbing hi level inputs from the rear "part of our discussion before I saw your post was the tears being pretty weak for a signal. So without tearing into how they wired it and grabbing from the rears if they didn't would running of a single front channel be as simple as disconnecting one of the RCA's from the bass RCA output on the lc2i or does it do some sort of summing automatically from it's high level inputs that it sends to both channels on that RCA output. If that makes sense lol
The lc2i should output stereo from the bass channels. Disconnecting one of them will do the trick. However if the bass output is reduced your amp will need adjusted. It may have a toggle for single vs dual rca input or the gain may need to be increased to match the previous level.

Once you get the level you want dialed in. Switch the other lc2i bass output rca connection and listen. One of the two may sound better than the other due to the all pass filters. I couldn’t tell you which one as every custom install will vary.
 

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The lc2i should output stereo from the bass channels. Disconnecting one of them will do the trick. However if the bass output is reduced your amp will need adjusted. It may have a toggle for single vs dual rca input or the gain may need to be increased to match the previous level.

Once you get the level you want dialed in. Switch the other lc2i bass output rca connection and listen. One of the two may sound better than the other due to the all pass filters. I couldn’t tell you which one as every custom install will vary.
Awesome I'm gonna play with it on lunch today get it dialed in and replace the factory rear speakers as well. I already did the fronts which led me to going the 5 channel route
 

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That's totally explains what i'm hearing on our K5 with standard 8 inch head unit, Kia totally messed up the sound tuning for the from speakers. ( as shown on OP graphs)
when you increase volume and bass from speakers just sounds slapping without actual bass as the opposite of the rear speaker which sounds full but without much highs.

So only way to fix the messed up stock tuning to install Kicker KEYLOC. ? which implying removing the head unit to install it right? if i'm not going to add any amps or sub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
That's totally explains what i'm hearing on our K5 with standard 8 inch head unit, Kia totally messed up the sound tuning for the from speakers. ( as shown on OP graphs)
when you increase volume and bass from speakers just sounds slapping without actual bass as the opposite of the rear speaker which sounds full but without much highs.

So only way to fix the messed up stock tuning to install Kicker KEYLOC. ? which implying removing the head unit to install it right? if i'm not going to add any amps or sub.
The keyloc is the easiest way to fix the factory eq. However, you would need to power the speakers with an external amplifier.

If that’s the route you want to take you can access the speaker wires at the kick panels or pillars (for the rear).
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Infinity KAPPA-60CSX 6.5" Component Speakers KAPPA-62IX 6.5" Coaxial Speakers Amazon.com

Would these be a good choice for replacing the speakers? Also would the kicker keyloc need an Amp too and if so any suggestions? Thanks in advance
You wouldn’t need a keyloc or an amp to replace just the door speakers.

Infinity kappas are generally good speakers. I’ve not used them and can’t speak to their sound quality.

These would be good for the back doors but you may or may not like how they sound in the front as there would be four tweeters up front. It may be a bit harsh. It might not to you though, everyone has different preferences.
 

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So here is what I am contemplating. Please give me advice/criticism etc. Also any ways to save $$$. I will have someone professionally install at a shop.

Front doors - Infinity Reference 6530C- 6-1/2 Two-way component system w/crossover - $120


Rear Doors - Infinity Kappa 62IX 6.5" Coaxial Speaker System - $105


Trunk - Cerwin-Vega VPAS12ST 12" 2Ω 600W / 150W RMS Powered Active Subwoofer Spare Tire - $300


LOC - KICKER 47KEYLOC KEYLOC 10V - $120


Amplifier - Soundstream PN4.520D 520-Watt 4-Channel Picasso Nano Class-D Amplifier $120


Amp Wiring Kit - STINGER SS600XS 8GA Copper 600W Complete Wiring Kit, Blue $40


Sound Deadening - Dynamat 10435 12" x 36" x 0.067" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener $80

 
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