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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
@briangray1974

What are you looking to get out of the stereo?

I'd suggest you start with the sub and some sound deadening and see if you can get that sounding the way you like before going to the doors/tweets. Though I'd probably mix up your items a bit.

- The install kit is ok, but get a 4 gauge kit if you're fairly certain you'll add another amp for the doors in the future.

- I would get different brand of sound deadening. Dynamat is too expensive for what it is. Try Noico or knuconceptz. This package of Noico is thicker, heavier, 50% more sq ft and half the price. Knuconceptz is even thicker/heavier but harder to work with. It's really good for flatter panels like doors and trunk areas though.

- The sub may be fine but the listing says 150W and 250W RMS. Then it mentions 4 ohm and 2 ohm. That's a red flag for me. It can only be one or the other, lol. I've heard good things about the JBL Basspro. I've obviously not used either of them, and don't know if they will fit in the wheel and be flush.

For the fronts, if you're not going to use a digital EQ, I wouldn't bother amplifying the door speakers and tweeters. The factory radio is more than capable of powering the speakers you've chosen. Just be sure that whatever you install is 4 ohm and you're gold.
 

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OEM HEADUNIT SPECS

Output channels
: 4

Measured max output power:
Front - about 35 watts each
Rear - about 10 watts each

Before balking at this wattage, it's actually not bad. Thanks to the undistorted power it can be turned up really high. Assuming an average speaker sensitivity of [email protected] watt, you can easily reach over 100db with the factory setup. That's pretty damn loud for some door speakers/tweeters. Never tested the factory door speaker efficiency, this is just math in my head. Anyone care to share a measurement before replacing their gear?

Max voltage achieved from front channels of head unit: 11.6 volts
Useful info for selection of aftermarket amp(s), DSP, or line out converter

Clipping volume: According to my oscilloscope it did not clip, even at max volume, at any frequency, using a -5db 20-20kHz sine sweep. I tested with two scopes and still find it hard to believe. The tests were run with speaker wires connected to a 20k ohm resistor, not a speaker since I'm running headunit speaker wires to DSP high level input.

OEM speaker wire gauge: 20-22awg

Speaker wire colors:
  • Front left: + brown , - white
  • Front right: + blue , - red
  • Rear left: + black , - yellow
  • Rear right: + green , - orange
I did not verify tweeter wire colors or polarity as I didn't utilize the factory harnesses. The OEM tweeter wires do connect directly (in parallel) to the door speaker wires somewhere. I didn't care enough to track it down as I ran new wire to my aftermarket tweeters.

There may be a digital output somewhere on the radio. I didn't care to look for it as I wasn't willing to lose functionality like volume control on the steering wheel and radio as well as potentially lose navigation commands, hands free calling, chimes, etc. If you don't mind losing these features you could likely bypass all the BS detuning that follows.

Side note: If you can avoid removing the radio from the dash I would HIGHLY recommend it. It was a massive pain in the *** and felt like things were going to break. Most installs don't need it removed.


OEM SPEAKER SPECS

Impedance:
All are 4 ohms

Sizes:
Front Dash Tweeters - 1"
Front Doors - 6.5"
Rear Doors - 6.5"

Crossovers:
Door speakers - None. They run full range but are incapable of producing much above 6-7kHz and start beaming around 2kHz
Tweeters - High passed @ 8000Hz 6db/octave with inline capacitor attached to tweeter. This is really really high for a two way setup.

Space behind door card window when rolled down:
Front - about 2.125"
Rear - about 3"

Depth of door card to door panel - about 1.125"
Can I extend the mounting depth to 2.6 with a custom bracket for the fronts
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Can I extend the mounting depth to 2.6 with a custom bracket for the fronts
The total depth availed between rolled down wind and door cars is just over 3”. If you make your own brackets it could work.

My drivers have a mounting depth of 2.7” and a total depth (with mounting flange and surround) is 3.15”.
 

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Thanks for all the help and suggestions. here is what I finally did

For those disappointed with the sound systems, Bose or not, here is what I did with my Non-Bose system.
Front Door Infinity Reference 6530CX $75.72 https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01...
Back Door Infinity Reference 6532 EX $89.79 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09462FR6L/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_rfb
Amp Infinity Ref 5 Channel $290.00 https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00...
Smart LOC Kicker Keyloc $89.00 https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00...
Sub Infinity Primus 1270B $110.00 https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00...
Wiring Kits Recoil 4 Guage OFC 4 Channel Kit $67.00 https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01...
Install Harness and Dampening Speaker Baffles NVX XBAF65 Speaker Baffle Ring Kit Harness - Metra 72-7302, Brackets American International HKSB110 $60.00 https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=pd.../140-2169867-8816669...
I found a local shop to install everything for $390. They did a fantastic job. It looks so clean and sounds fantastic. Even better than my 2016 Optima Harmon Kardon system.
Motor vehicle Auto part Electric blue Personal luxury car Trunk

Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive design

Hood Car Automotive lighting Vehicle Automotive design
 

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2022 AWD Kia K5 Wolf Gray with Red Interior
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Can anyone help me figure out what the part number is for the replacement deck lid piece with the Bose Subwoofer cutout in it? I have a non Bose system and I am considering putting one in the deck like the Bose system had but I can't find the OEM part number for that piece.
 

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2021 Kia K5 GT-Line AWD
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Can anyone help me figure out what the part number is for the replacement deck lid piece with the Bose Subwoofer cutout in it? I have a non Bose system and I am considering putting one in the deck like the Bose system had but I can't find the OEM part number for that piece.
The trim part that goes in the interior is 85610-L3100WK, while the metal trunk roof is 69300-L3300. The thing is, the roof of the trunk for trims that don't have the Bose system is closed off and bonded together with the rest of the body frame with automotive bonding glue. However, someone did end up just making the hole themselves for the speaker before so there's always that route.
 

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Thanks so much for this post. I have a helix p6, morel tweets, audiofrog mids, and audiofrog 6x9s from the car I totaled and just got a k5. I also have some cdt 6.5's, so it looks like i will be using those. And there definitely isn't enough room in the dash for the midranges. So I guess i'm going back to a two way active frontstage :( All of this info is fantastic and will save me a ton of time, I can't thank you enough
 

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2022 K5 GT Line Premium AWD
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Now that it's nice out, I'm looking forward to getting my Alpine amplified DSP installed to run active front stage as well. Probably going to switch to Audison Voce, but may splurge for the Hertz Mille Legends
 

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2021 Kia K5 GT-Line AWD
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can someone send me a picture of the door panels from a model with the bose system. I read they have 2.5in midrange in the front doors and may replace my door panels if I can make my 3 way active frontstage work.
Here you go, you can see the speaker grill in front of the door handles.
Car Vehicle Gear shift Motor vehicle Steering part


This will also give you a look at the front midrange speakers from behind the door panel:
 

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so I finally got everything in. I also have a Helix dsp. I'm not at all great with this thing. can you shine some light into how you got rid of the allpass filters?

edit: nevermind just took some tinkering.

anyways.. install is just about done. I ended up cutting holes in my door panels where the factory mids would be in the bose version as I just couldn't live without 3 ways up front. I've honestly never had to try to deal with defeating factory head unit issues as I would always just immediately replace it. obviously that's not an option for this car. Although I hope in the future there will be a digital audio adapter for the stock head unit, the high level inputs on the Helix do make things sound pretty decent after input eq and time alignment and peq, I was kinda surprised.

full install:
Helix P6
Morel MT220 in factory tweeter locations
CDT Unity 8.0Plus 2.5in mids
CDT ES Gold 6.5" in front doors
Extensive CLD and CCF on front door skins, sheet metal and waterproof egg crate on the inside also.

Taramps 3k (I'm a bass junkie I know I know)
2 x 12" CSS SDX Ported @ 36hz

All new Wiring from knukonceptz.
0awg from batt to distro block, 4ga to amps/dsp.
14ga to front door woofers
16ga to front door mids and tweets

All plastic panels removed and CLD+CCF added for vibration and road noise control.
New clips installed with neoprene rings (because I'm really anal about vibration noise)

I've yet to trim my wiring back all the way and zip tie everything so it's a mess. I will take pictures once I make her perty.


The mids being exposed in the door panel I'm not a fan of. Also there is more of a curve which leaves a gap around the edge that I had to fill with CCF rings. Not my cup of tea. I'm working on getting something mocked up on my 3d printer to cover them. Having a hard time capturing the curve precisely.
 

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Thanks for all the help and suggestions. here is what I finally did

For those disappointed with the sound systems, Bose or not, here is what I did with my Non-Bose system.
Front Door Infinity Reference 6530CX $75.72 https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01...
Back Door Infinity Reference 6532 EX $89.79 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09462FR6L/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_rfb
Amp Infinity Ref 5 Channel $290.00 https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00...
Smart LOC Kicker Keyloc $89.00 https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00...
Sub Infinity Primus 1270B $110.00 https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00...
Wiring Kits Recoil 4 Guage OFC 4 Channel Kit $67.00 https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01...
Install Harness and Dampening Speaker Baffles NVX XBAF65 Speaker Baffle Ring Kit Harness - Metra 72-7302, Brackets American International HKSB110 $60.00 https://www.amazon.com/.../ref=pd.../140-2169867-8816669...
I found a local shop to install everything for $390. They did a fantastic job. It looks so clean and sounds fantastic. Even better than my 2016 Optima Harmon Kardon system.
View attachment 2799
View attachment 2800
View attachment 2798
This is awesome information! We’re just starting the process of pricing out all the replacement speakers and additional subwoofers, etc., so this information will come in very handy! Thank you for taking the time to post this.
 

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1. Thank you for this post. It has all the information one would need to fix the audio issues.
2. I was very underwhelmed with the stock sound. I just came from a car that had extensive deadening, full active morel 3 way(maximo) and a nice hefty dose of that bass.
3. The helix dsp would be the easiest factory integration, or any dsp yes?
4. Where would one find a suitable helix to install into the car.

Thanks as Im new to the K5 world!
 

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Helix isn't sold online from any authorized retailer that I know of. you can go on their website and use the locator to find a place that sells them near you. Helix has a pretty big learning curve also. there are simpler dsp's like audio control that are more user friendly and you can get them from Crutchfield. but yeah to defeat the factory EQ you are going to have to have a dsp. There are plenty like the Helixp6 and audiocontrol 5.1300 that also have amps built in so that makes for a much simpler install also. the dsp is where the majority of your money should go. it can make even average speakers sound completely different especially with all the acoustically reflective surfaces inside a car.
 

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Helix isn't sold online from any authorized retailer that I know of. you can go on their website and use the locator to find a place that sells them near you. Helix has a pretty big learning curve also. there are simpler dsp's like audio control that are more user friendly and you can get them from Crutchfield. but yeah to defeat the factory EQ you are going to have to have a dsp. There are plenty like the Helixp6 and audiocontrol 5.1300 that also have amps built in so that makes for a much simpler install also. the dsp is where the majority of your money should go. it can make even average speakers sound completely different especially with all the acoustically reflective surfaces inside a car.
when i traded in my car, i kept all the audio in it. they opted to pay me for it and i wasnt about to get in there to take it all out( its hot here in FL!) I had a audio dynamics dsp in that car with the stock radio and it didnt defeat the all pass nissan had in place. Thats why i asked about the helix, i remembered reading somewhere else that they could work the magic and defeat all that. But im excited to start this audio build and keep in simpler than the last one, cheaper too! 😅
 

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@slimguy
Thank you so much for this post, I recently got a new gt-line with the 6 speaker and ordered new parts a week into ownership. This post clarifies so much and all of the time it must have taken to write out is much appreciated!

I would consider myself a very big fan of a well tuned sound system, natural (present but not too sharp highs), warm mids, and powerful (but not obnoxious) bass, but am on a college budget😅 I am planning on trying to tackle this upgrade myself, and am planning on using many of your tips, but have a few questions if you don't mind helping -

Where can I find a good ground under the front passenger seat?
Where would be the best place to ground 2 amps in the trunk?
Will a 4 channel amp be safe sharing the same cavity as the spare tire/subwoofer?

Here is my plan for reference:
Speaker outputs from head unit to under passenger seat where an LC7i will be. From there using the first 2 channel outputs to go to an infinity primus 60Wx4 via RCA patch cables and the 3rd channel output from that LC7i to go directly to a JBL bass pro in the spare tire also using RCA. Finally from the infinity amp (hopefully to be wedged or placed in the spare tire cavity) using a 9 wire to go back to behind the head unit to connect to all of the doors. All factory speaker locations will be replaced with Alpine S series - components in the front and 2 ways in the rear. Planning on using dynamat in the doors per your recommendations and adding some to the trunk lid and spare tire cavity. Power will be provided by a 4 Guage from battery to trunk and a distribution block from there for the amps, and an 18 Guage from battery to the LC7i.

Thank you so much again for the post/answer/recommendations in advance!
 
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