[B00tySalads]

Trying to wire a 4 channel amp with amp in the trunk. How has everyone routed the output wire to their speakers? The only path along the floor -> door pass through has these wire panel clips so I can't figure out how to get speaker wire to go through the doors.

 

[B00tySalads]

Does anyone know which color on the wires is for the speaker signal?

 

[B00tySalads]

Appreciate the kind words! Hopefully many will find the info in here helpful.

Super helpful for sure. Wondering though if you might be able to explain how you wired your tweeters to the crossover? I'm guessing you put the crossover in the door panel, however the molex panel that's between the doors/cabin... How did you get wires through there?

 

[steelkane]

I installed JBL Club 605CSQ in 1 door so far, I drilled a hole to the right side of the inside door handle for the tweeter and put the crossover in the door, a screw was stripped on the second crossover, but i will take pictures when i do the second door, I also forgot to disconnect the dash tweeter but the sound was really good on the drivers side so i left it.

 

[B00tySalads]

TWEETERS

The tweeters were quite the challenge. The OEM tweeters are 1" but are difficult to replace due to the way they mount. The tweeter itself has a very specific mounting clip on the grille. You can remove the tweeter from the grille by gently prying it out of each clip with a flat head screw driver.

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The outside diameter of the OEM tweeter removed from the grille is about 40mm. Space is very limited and fitting replacement tweeters will be difficult to source. When you remove the grille/tweeter you'll notice how little room you have to even get it out of the dash. Lots of constraints here.


The easiest route

If you don't mind your aftermarket tweeters being visible the upgrade can be fairly simple. Cut a hole in the factory tweeter grilles and flush mount them. Note: flush mounted tweeters firing into the windshield can sound a bit harsh, but not always. You'll want to test the location before committing to flush mount. Angling them a bit, when possible, can help too. You could potentially surface mount, but there's no a lot of room up there. Other options include mounting in pods or on the pillars (careful with airbags). These are often the best sounding positions for tweeters.


My tweeters... not the easy route

Since I already had tweeters and didn't want them to be visible I had to get crafty. I prefer things to look factory to keep the thieves away. Keeping the factory look greatly restricts mounting options.

Inspecting below the grille quickly revealed there would be no easy path. Under the grille/tweeter is just a hole with no mounting flange. The only thing that can be attached to is a bolt near the windshield through the dashboard (circled in green).

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My Hertz tweeters are much larger at 54mm outside diameter (~40mm OEM) and were on the very edge of being too large.

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If you replace tweeters, know that this is the upper diameter of what can fit. Here it is face down over the OEM hole which required quite a bit of cutting. Sorry for the glare, I ran out of hands.

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Making room

I dremeled the plastic clips from the grilles with a dremel as they will only be used as covers in my install.

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Next, I removed a fair amount plastic from the opening so my larger tweeter would fit through the hole. Be very careful here since you're so close to the windshield. I didn't take a picture of the hole being cut but you'll see the result it in the gallery up next.


Creating a bracket

I then made custom brackets out of steel sheet from Lowe's that is held in place by bolts in the dash. This took several attempts to get it just right for my tweeter. If you go this route you may need to make the "23mm" tall section longer or shorter depending on the depth of your tweeter.

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The end result, sans grille

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The tweeter is affixed to the bracket by the screw in the back, but 3M tape/velcro should hold perfectly as well for tweeter without this option.

So did you install the new tweeters to your aftermarket crossover and just leave the OEM tweeter wires disconnected and still get the proper high frequencies to the new tweeters that way?

 

[Lokiwrecks]

Help/Suggestions/Rate my setup

First time doing a full install, but I have done a few stock speaker and headers upgrades but looking for all the help you all can share. I listen to a lot of edm so I want high fidelity and clarity, nice clean treble, accurate bass, and a full range spectrum. I have the stock ‘23 K5, 8” and basic six speaker layout. Listing what I’ve already ordered and am considering buying, tell me if I’m going in the wrong direction and throw your best option at my clouded mind. There’s not a lot of info out there on how to wire this car so I’ll also explain how I plan to wire it and again, tell me if it’s a bad idea please.

Front Doors / Corner Dash Tweeters: Focal ISU 165
I need to find where it would be best to cut at and run to the loc and back. If these do in fact run parallel then can I just run to/from behind the front driver/passenger kick wells and run a single channel LF and another RF or will I have to split as four different channels?

Rear Doors : Focal ICU 165
Tap the middle pillars and run LR and RR

Rear Subwoofer : JBL BassPro Hub
Nice little enclosed unit with installed amp hidden in the spare tire well - I do a lot of traveling with car pooling so the trunk space is important to keep.

So I’m planning on also getting a smart LOC to take input from the afore stated wiring locations (tweeters and doors, NOT for sub) as 4xIn-Channels, and then outputting to an amp. Now this is where I get confused; I have never used a LOC or processor before so how should I connect their output to an AMPs Input? It looks like the LOCs have only 2x RCA outputs from 4x speaker inputs, and these are to be run to the 2x RCA inputs for the amp which then splits back into 4x speaker wires to go right back into where I rerouted in the afore stated harness locations?

Are these good choices?
Doors / Tweeters Amp : Pioneer GM DX874
LOC : PAC LPA E.4

I’m thinking of installing these under the Driver seat (once I pull it out and check if there is room) Keep in mind I’m 6’5 so I keep the seat in the max rear position and lowest it goes on the tracks.

Power :
Because the spare wheel sub obviously needs its own power line, I’m thinking of taking a 2 or 4ga?? from battery, splitting after fuse and firewall into the 4ga power for the interior amp and the 4ga to sub.

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Drew up a lil wiring diagram of how my mind pictures it, if you prefer something else please reply with a diagram as I do really well having those in front of me.