I tried one on my GT-L. It was really bad! Uneven running and unstable acceleration. I sent it back.

 

The engine cover pops off. Pull straight up.

This is what your GT 2.5T engine bay looks like with cover off:

The GTS is simple: a chip module, a harness specific to your vehicle, and some zip ties:

 

It came with a link to what is supposed to be a K5 GT specific manual, but by page 6, it was showing me everything but a K5 GT engine including Volkswagen and Mercedes:

after trying to match harness ends with plugs, and find a diagram somewhere online, it got dark & we decided to resume in daylight and contact their tech support.

 

Did you get the additional fuel wire/V2 harness?

 

I'm not sure what you mean.

 

They are a German company, hence the VW instructions. I do not see how they compile calibrations for the breadth of cars that they claim to support. I doubt they've even seen a K5. Your mileage may vary but my experience was not good. Only took 5 mins to fit though, despite the VW photos. Man did it run badly.

A lot of Forte Owners use the JB4 and Racechip

I'm not sure what you mean.

I was thinking Jb4...DOH!

 

I called customer service for technicaĺ support. A lady took my order number then transferred me to a colleague who sent me this photo for specifics. This is better than nothing but still not quite clear. I'll dig into it on my lunch break.

I took a few more photos while trying to figure it out so I can pinpoint the connections: Here is the engine bay from different angles:

 

I agree. The photo they sent is pretty useless. Maybe you can educate them as you complete your installation!

 

...and it's a Sorento engine compartment...lol. You can tell because of the small intake duct instead of the long intake duct on the K5.

 

The only Kia photo in the instructions that came with mine was of the under hood of a naturally aspirated hybrid electric vehicle. The rest were VW.

 

What do the instructions list for A, B, and C?

A MAP sensor?
B Boost sensor?
C ?

 

A) Turbo boost pressure sensor

B) Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

C) Camshaft connection

It didn't show any codes when I started the engine
.

 

Don't leave us in suspense, LOL. Any noticeable gains'?

 

So on my 2024 2.5T GT, A) is down deep & hard to find & hard to reach and swap with large hands. Begin by taking the intake off (it just pops out - pull up at the grille, & away at the airbox) B) & C) were within the general vicinity of the area on the instructions photo although not really shown well in that photo. A 2nd frustrating moment came when I tried to connect to the RaceChip via Bluetooth. My phone Samsung S22 Ultra kept connecting to the Kia as soon as I would disconnect it. Then after unpairing, the Kia and phone kept trying to pair and interrupting the pairing with RaceChip. This obviously isn't RaceChip's fault.

It was raining here last night. I'll try to run it tonight.

The app looks simple. There are 3 large tune buttons for Eco, Sport, & Race. Each can be further tuned, I think...

 

Overall was it worth it? How much was the kit, do you notice any extra giddy up? Will this void warranty on anything I wonder? Extra 41 hp sounds fun!

 

First run with a chip:

Admittedly there is nothing scientific about this. This is starting from an overpass so I had a little help from gravity. I gotta find a good flat place to do some before (without) and after (with racechip) runs. I'm not really trying to do a bunch of runs in the dark on unfamiliar terrain. I'll try to do some more this weekend. FWIW, this 13.4@105) is a quicker ET than my stock '98 Z28 A4 w/ 2.73s or '02 WS6 M6 w/ 3.42s. (~13.75 @ 104)

 

The jury is still out on performance. Kit was $441 USD with the app. Since it intercepts the signals and replaces them with its own, it's not overwriting anything. In theory, you could pull it off and the dealership would never know. I didn't see any warning lights or messages yet. It also comes with a 2 yr warranty for your engine (up to $5k) just in case.

 

Any further feedback? How is the car performing?

 

What app do you use to measure performance? The only one I have tried recently is Track Addict.

 

Other than putting the car on a dyno and getting your wheel HP, the only other real way to measure HP is to check your 1/4 mile speed and the track with the RaceChip installed and with it un-installed.

Don't have the ability to go to a 1/4 mile drag strip, then get yourself a 'Dragy'. The Dragy is very very very accurate in showing correct elapsed time and speed.

$179 . . Read all about it here: Dragy Motorsports

You buy the Dragy and download the free cellphone app (very easy to use). It is not dedicated to only your car. You can let other friends use it too.

Start at 5:45 Time:

 

Other than putting the car on a dyno and getting your wheel HP, the only other real way to measure HP is to check your 1/4 mile speed and the track with the RaceChip installed and with it un-installed.

Don't have the ability to go to a 1/4 mile drag strip, then get yourself a 'Dragy'. The Dragy is very very very accurate in showing correct elapsed time and speed.

$179 . . Read all about it here: Dragy Motorsports

You buy the Dragy and download the free cellphone app (very easy to use). It is not dedicated to only your car. You can let other friends use it too.

Start at 5:45 Time:

In the second video the Mustang's steering wheel would drive me crazy! Can't believe he doesn't fix it - 90 degrees off...

 

Trollworks ... I see you had an 02 Trans Am and a 98 Z28:

Here is a photo of my 98 Trans Am that I bought new back in 1998 and a friends 98 Z28 SS (modified with twin turbos)

 

beautiful cars

 

Yeah...****ty tires. Also seen 5.7 secs.

 

Ok... I had the chance to do nine quality runs today with RaceChip installed and my new Dragy, and I'm a little disappointed. The weather was cloudy, windy, dry pavement but humid air, cool for central TX ~65*F. Tire pressures were 35-37psi all around. The run had a slight decline ~-0.35-0.69 degrees depending on which calculation you believe. The run was basically the same every time. I did some runs with launch control off, some with it on, some with RaceChip off, some with it on Race setting, either level 5 or 7...
60 ft: 2.43-2.50s
330 ft: 6.14-6.27s
1/8 mi: 9.12-9.29s @81.68-83.36 mph
1.000ft: 11.66-11.88s @94.58-96.61 mph
1/4 mi: 13.79-14.06s @103.58-105.57 mph

The first run of the day was the best run. It's the one that yielded a 13.78s @ 105.57mph. I rolled straight from the highway to my secret test strip. RaceChip was already on and set to Race level 5. It went downhill from there. I was unable to duplicate or exceed the result and I also wasn't able to tell much difference between having RaceChip on or off. My next 2 runs were with RaceChip off to get a baseline. I ran a 13.82 at 104.97 and 13.89 at 104.29. You could maybe argue it was worth a tenth of a second in ET and maybe 1.3 mph in trap speed; certainly not what I was expecting from a chip that claimed to add 41 HP and 61 Torque. I boosted the Race setting from 5 to 7, and my times got slightly worse: 3 runs yielded ETs from 13.86-13.96 at 103.58-104.87 mph. After thinking about it, maybe it was from excessive wheel spin at lower speeds, but the 60 ft numbers were so close - hundredths of a second from best to worst, it almost didn't matter. It has me wondering if it's connected correctly or if it was even on. My 7th and 8th runs were with the RaceChip set to 7 and launch control off. I got lots of wheel spin and my worst 60 ft times (2.48s and 2.50s) but surprisingly still within hundredths of a second of my best with launch control on (2.42s). My last run was RC on 7, launch control 13.89 at 105.48.

RaceChip doesn't like to connect while my phone is connected to my K5. It hangs in the "connecting" phase indefinitely more often than not. I found that I can best connect when I have the car turned off, and turn the K5 and my phone's Bluetooth on at the same time, before my phone connects to the K5. My phone, a Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra runs Bluetooth 5 and should be able to connect to multiple devices. It connects to the K5 and Dragy reliably every time with ease. It's only the RaceChip that gives me trouble. If you don't even have the car on, the screen around the buttons goes black. When it's connected, the screen is orange.

The K5 launch control sucks too. Sometimes, it wouldn't let me get into LC, saying, "Launch Control Conditions Not Met". Sometimes it would. The results weren't too different either way. There was still some wheel spin with launch control on and I found I could almost modulate the throttle as well as launch control.

Either way, my ETs and trap speeds seemed to get worse the more I ran. Maybe it's from increasing humidity, or maybe my engine compartment was getting hot or maybe it's because of the excessive wheel spin. I don't know, but I do know RaceChip didn't give me the WOW factor I was looking for today.

Conclusion: I'm currently undecided if RaceChip even works at all but the K5 may benefit from better /stickier tires up front.

Way forward: I will reach out to RaceChip to see what they say about the connection issue and the performance stats. I may try a few more runs with less pressure in the front tires, and maybe higher pressure in the back. RaceChip has a 30 day money-back guarantee and if I don't see some differences, I may test that guarantee.

 

89 octane or 93 octane fuel?

Careful with tire pressure - by chance did you look at your tire marks? What did the mark look like - solid across? Street tires are not like racing tires - if you reduce pressure you end up loosing more tread surface and have a potential to spin the wheel in the tire.
Your first run was most likely your best because your tire was hot from driving there.

 

Best run:

 

These numbers are pretty much stock car K5GT numbers with good tires. Return the race chip and look into lap 3 pro tuner.
BTW, what's your best 0-60?

 

5.61s

 

Hoe come your acceleration is decreasing before you hit 60mph?

 

My guess is it redlines and shifts from 1st to 2nd and maybe 3rd too.

 

I too have a 2024 GT. Sometime today I will take the car out and do some 0-60 mph times using my Dragy, and post them here.

The only difference in my car is the tires: . . 255/40-19 . . Nitto NT555 G2 . . (These are summer tires 1 size larger than OEM)

 

Well, I just went out and did 3 runs 0-60 mph using the Dragy. No traction at all using Sport+ mode. Best was a pitiful 6.39 seconds. Tires spun bad all the way to about 40 mph. I didn't try to 'feather' the throttle, just kept it floorboarded from a dead stop through 60+ mph.

I tried to delete the other 2 runs while saving the 6.39 second run, but my cellphone deleted all the runs, so I can't post the time slip from the Dragy. I am going to need to do this all over again to get a time slip to post here.

I would have thought that with the larger summer tires, the car would have less wheel spin, but the traction was non-existent throughout the 0-60 run.

The pavement on the street was dry this morning, so I can't blame damp pavement for all the wheel spin.

Worthless 0-60 time !

 

Why KIA decided to install a 1-legged differential in these cars is just insane !

 

I'm assuming cost. Just like they have Napa leather in the Stinger and leatherette in the k5.

 

I was just thinking ... Don't these cars have 'traction control' when not in Sport+ mode? I thought Sport+ mode turns off Traction Control.

Next time I do a few more 0-60 times, I am going to do them while in Sport Mode instead of Sport+ mode ... maybe then the Traction Control will still be on.

 

In Sport mode the wheel spin should be a lot less. When I had it in sport mode with wet roads the wheel would start to spin and the power would shut down to keep the wheel from spinning.

 

Gotts find the sweet spot on the throttle. Feather it till you gain enough speed to floor it. Maybe manual shift at a bit before red line since most of the torque is before 3k rpm?? Just a thought.