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Hey all! I was wondering if it's worth installing an aftermarket amp and sub, with the factory headunit. I have the EX without the Bose sound system. I'm not necessarily displeased with the sound, but I personally like a bass boost. Mostly because I make music and I like to test my mixes in the car.

If I do it, I plan to use an LOC (line out converter), presumably tapping into the rear speakers, and tapping the amp's remote wire into the fuse panel. However, I don't know if it'd even be worth the trouble. I'd only install a single 10", maybe even smaller at an 8", sub. Nothing crazy, just something to add bass for my own enjoyment.
 

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Hey all! I was wondering if it's worth installing an aftermarket amp and sub, with the factory headunit. I have the EX without the Bose sound system. I'm not necessarily displeased with the sound, but I personally like a bass boost. Mostly because I make music and I like to test my mixes in the car.

If I do it, I plan to use an LOC (line out converter), presumably tapping into the rear speakers, and tapping the amp's remote wire into the fuse panel. However, I don't know if it'd even be worth the trouble. I'd only install a single 10", maybe even smaller at an 8", sub. Nothing crazy, just something to add bass for my own enjoyment.
I just installed a 12" rockford fosgate. I can walk you through the install if you choose to go that route. Personally though, I wouldn't waste your time unless you go with a very high quality 10" with some power pushing it, or a 12" with good power. Unless you plan on having your rear seat folded down all the time. The trunk is pretty tight, so not a lot of sound coming through. I've almost always had a stereo, usually 2 12's. My last set up was 2 Alpine Type R 12's and a 1000 watt mono block Alpine amp. My current is 1 rockford 12 w/ a built in 300 watt amp. So it's no where near as loud as I'm used to, but it sounds good. I have a bass knob installed as well for adjustability.
But, like I tell my customers, if you want it or like it, it's always worth it in the long run.
 

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I just installed a 12" rockford fosgate. I can walk you through the install if you choose to go that route. Personally though, I wouldn't waste your time unless you go with a very high quality 10" with some power pushing it, or a 12" with good power. Unless you plan on having your rear seat folded down all the time. The trunk is pretty tight, so not a lot of sound coming through. I've almost always had a stereo, usually 2 12's. My last set up was 2 Alpine Type R 12's and a 1000 watt mono block Alpine amp. My current is 1 rockford 12 w/ a built in 300 watt amp. So it's no where near as loud as I'm used to, but it sounds good. I have a bass knob installed as well for adjustability.
But, like I tell my customers, if you want it or like it, it's always worth it in the long run.
That all sounds fine to me. I was thinking 500W or so for the amp. Maybe higher if I can get away with it, without compromising too much space in the trunk. Luckily the trunk is a good size, IMO, so even a 12" sub will not take up too much space.

I'd love to walk through it some time. Could you possibly PM me with an overview of how you did it?l, and any "gotchas" you may have come across? Thanks!
 

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That all sounds fine to me. I was thinking 500W or so for the amp. Maybe higher if I can get away with it, without compromising too much space in the trunk. Luckily the trunk is a good size, IMO, so even a 12" sub will not take up too much space.

I'd love to walk through it some time. Could you possibly PM me with an overview of how you did it?l, and any "gotchas" you may have come across? Thanks!
Absolutely. I'll update when I have some more time
 

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Alright, rjdavis, I don't have the same radio, nor have I even seen it up close. But I can't imagine it's set up much differently. I can only describe the gt line set up.
Meubin10, here ya go...
So I installed my line out converter behind the radio. My thought process was that would be the easiest way to access both left and right speakers, as well as a good ground and access to an ignition wire. Honestly, in retrospect, if I had to do it again, I may have tried to access them in both kick panels for ease of installation and easier accessibility. Either way, to remove the radio, you will have to start from the pass side, remove the dash side panel. You will need to remove 2 Phillips screws, 1 for each dash trim plate. Once removed, starting with the lower of the 2, gently pull out starting from pass side working your way toward the center. It will unsnap with light pressure. After the lower piece is removed, repeat with the upper trim piece the same way. This piece is actually tucked behind the trim going above the steering wheel as well, so you'll have to unsnap that piece slightly as well. Then, above/ behind the radio, there is a oval/ rectangular plastic cover, using a plastic trim tool, pry that up and remove.
With all of those pieces removed you will be able to access the 4 Phillips screws holding in the radio. 2 above/ behind the radio and 2 below in either outside corner. Once these screws are removed, gently pull the radio towards you it will unsnap with a little pressure. Use the attached wiring diagram to locate the left and right speaker wires. Connect your rca cables and run them down through the radio opening and down the right side of the dash. You will want to run your rca's down the pass side and power down the dr side. Running them together causes interference. Remove kick panel and sill plate on pass side, run the rca's under the carpet to the outside and continue to the back of the car.
For the power cable, I made a small slit in the big rubber grommet in the firewall under the steering wheel, then pushed the wire through. The battery is on the drivers side underhood, so it works really well running it through there. I use a very large zip tie (3ft) that I use to run wires through grommets, under carpets and in any other tight places. I just tape the wires to the zip tie, push the zip tie through and pull it and the wires through.
This should be common knowledge, but make sure you have a nice in line fuse and good quality fuse holder installed a few inches to a foot off of the battery.
At this point you are going to need an amp turn on wire. I grabbed mine right behind the fuse door panel on the dr side knee bolster. All the main ignition wires are right there and very easily accessibility. You can just as easily grab it behind the radio also.
I solder all my connections as it is the best connection in my opinion.
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Run your power wires back the same way you did your rcas. When it comes to routing the wires around the back seat, I'll be honest, I just stuffed them through and tucked them away for now. I'm installing leather seats in a couple weeks, so when I take the seats out then, I will run them correctly.
You will need a good solid ground for your amp as well. I put mine behind the carpet on the dr side trunk area.
To access it, I removed the plastic trunk still plate. 2 plastic retainers on bottom, then pull straight up. There are 2 more plastic retainers on the top of the carpet. Once those are out of the way, the carpet is removed easily. I used a brace near the wheel well. Drilled a small hole, used a nut/ bolt and star washer.
Then put an that shit back together, tune away and crank up!
Oh, don't attach the battery until the very end.
Hope this helps fellas!!

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I’m installing a powered subs and wanted to tap into the rear door speakers (high level input) I have The EX (no, Bose). I’m having a hard time getting to the speakers, anyone have any tips?
Thanks
 

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I'm going to install my 12's soon. I also plan on replacing all four 6.5's at the same time . My optima had Rockfords in the doors powered by an alpine amp, along with the 12's connected to a monoblock. Needless to say I hate the factory sound system I can't deal with it. Easily a 2/5. I have a game plan to get it going for now, so it won't take me long too install. I do not plan on pulling the radio rn, at least until I get a better battery and HO alt. My plan is to tap 12v ign from fuse block for remote on, plus 12v from battery to amp, and ground is easy. Once done these will go to distro block(s) mounted by the sub enclosure. These blocks will feed the amp and lc2i. Since I am replacing all the door speakers, I can easily add an extra set of spkr wires to feed the loc input. This is where I need help. I cannot find information to remove the door panels? Do you have any information on this? Once the pannels are removed, I would like to see if the trim piece behind the door handle is removable. If so I'm thinking I can order the perforated bose trim piece from the dealer to add another set of tweters in each door.
 

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I'm going to install my 12's soon. I also plan on replacing all four 6.5's at the same time . My optima had Rockfords in the doors powered by an alpine amp, along with the 12's connected to a monoblock. Needless to say I hate the factory sound system I can't deal with it. Easily a 2/5. I have a game plan to get it going for now, so it won't take me long too install. I do not plan on pulling the radio rn, at least until I get a better battery and HO alt. My plan is to tap 12v ign from fuse block for remote on, plus 12v from battery to amp, and ground is easy. Once done these will go to distro block(s) mounted by the sub enclosure. These blocks will feed the amp and lc2i. Since I am replacing all the door speakers, I can easily add an extra set of spkr wires to feed the loc input. This is where I need help. I cannot find information to remove the door panels? Do you have any information on this? Once the pannels are removed, I would like to see if the trim piece behind the door handle is removable. If so I'm thinking I can order the perforated bose trim piece from the dealer to add another set of tweters in each door.
You're in the right track for sure. I have not removed my door panels yet, sorry. I will be in a few weeks tho as I will be wrapping them in leather to match my seats. I'll update then if you haven't gotten to it yet.
 

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Just finished replacing all the door speakers will upload pics soon, straight forward one screw and like 10 clips. I would suggest only using plastic tools on them. I tried one of the metal trim removal tools; its the fork looking one. I call it the camel toe, I wrapped it in tape, had it on the clip since its bent at an angle, I was using it as leverage against what I thought was a meaty part of the door, but it was not. It left a very small set of dents in the door, (they look like spot welds) just going to have to live with that for now. Not a huge deal but it does suck ass. I really thought the clip would pop well before it would do any damage. I digress you live ya learn. The stock speakers were exactly as I expected plastic basket, tiny magnet, and paper cone. The door panel itself is a little wired because its multiple pieces of plastic, plastic welded together, a clip lives right behind the handle which come off as a unit. Its screwed from the back side. I'm use to older GM vehicles in that aspect where there is a little rod held by a plastic clip. My theory behind buying the Bose trim for the front is off, its possible to fabricate something, but I suspect ordering from the dealer, they will only sell it as one entire unit. As for fabricating a piece for that area it is somewhat easily removable with a Dremel. As far as tapping the rear speakers through the factory door connector it is possible but they use a bulkhead connector which is way more work then I would like, so ill tap in by the kick panels. All in all it isn't bad, I did learn a few thing, so anybody reading this in the future use only plastic pry tools that door is shell is very weak.
 

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1. Remove one Phillips screw under the arm rest,
this is the only screw in each door panel.

2. Roll window down all the way

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3. Start an ALL PLASTIC pry tool in this little cut out,
these are on the bottom of each door panel

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4. Each hole corresponds to one green plastic clip
Carefully disengage most of the plastic clips.
until their is enough room for step 5.

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5. Once most clips are off and the panel is moves freely, reach up and unplug the
the white connector. This is the only connector that must be unplugged.
You may have enough slack to do this later, this is just how I did it.

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REAR ONLY NO PIC* There is a plastic triangular trim piece in that sits by the window that must be removed prior to lifting up and out on the panel.
6. Once all clips are free lift out and up to disengage the top rail that rides in the window opening.
This is the back of the front pass door panel you can see most of the clips. The top clip is the interior door handle backside view.
You will have enough slack in the front doors to let the panels hang out of the way. I rested them on the floor on top of microfiber rags.
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OPTIONAL
The rear doors did not rest on the floor without putting more strain then I wanted on the door cable mechanism, so I removed the handle.
On the back of the door panel there are four Phillips screws that hold it in place. They are behind the white insulation piece. I used tiny pieces of butyl strip cock
to re attach the insulation in a few places, looks like the factory melts it in place with a special tool.

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If you made it through to this line good luck, it really isn't that bad.
 
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